Families traveling in Colorado can find all the natural beauty and outdoor recreation they want along the Peak to Peak Highway.
Some of the best Colorado camping, fishing, hiking, peak climbing, wildflower sniffing, bird-watching, and stargazing lies within an hour or two of Denver.
The
crest of America, the continental divide, parts the nation’s waters to
the east and west as it crosses the land. In Colorado, it soars to over
14,000 feet above sea level. Its Indian Peaks (Paiute, Pawnee,
Shoshoni, Arikaree, and North and South Arapaho) are clearly visible
over 120 miles away, on the state’s eastern prairies. They reflect the
Great Plains sunrise like a jagged crown.
At the base of this
range is a road rich with history and recreational opportunities. The
Peak to Peak Highway brags 11 campgrounds, 6 picnic areas, scores of
lakes and streams, hiking and mountain biking trails, ghost towns, and
views to take your breath away. Close to Denver, it is also one of the
most popular drives in the state. But with planning and creativity,
travelers can find solitude just off the road.
HIGH DRIVE
Sultry
summertime is perfect for visiting Colorado’s high country. In spite of
chilly nights, wildflowers dance in July breezes. Only the shadiest
forest pockets keep their snow in August. This is when Colorado’s
oldest scenic byway is at its best.
The 55-mile route connects
Central City on the south with Estes Park on the north. Paved and well
maintained year round, the road winds nearly continuously, with
occasional hairpin curves thrown in for good measure. Yet the bends
create surprise views of peaks looming over the road and prairies
stretching off to the east.
SLEEPING OUT
The
route travels through the Arapaho-Roosevelt National Forest, passing
Golden Gate Canyon State Park, and bordering Rocky Mountain National
Park as it proceeds north. Their campgrounds offer sleeping options in
some of the most scenic areas in Colorado. The Longs Peak campground in
Rocky Mountain National Park is wooded, quiet, and open to tents only.
On the other extreme, the Reverend’s Ridge campground in Golden Gate
Canyon State Park offers laundry and shower facilities and cabins in
addition to electrical hook-ups for RV’s.
“Because it is the
farthest from Rocky Mountain National Park, Kelly Dahl campground is
the last to fill up on busy weekends,” said Maribeth Pecotte,
Information Assistant for the Arapaho-Roosevelt National Forest. “But
it has a pond right across the road and a playground, plus really nice
views of the continental divide.
“But be prepared for Colorado
weather conditions,” she adds. “The nights get cold here – some of our
campgrounds are over 10,000 feet. And please remember to clean up your
campsite when you leave, using the garbage cans provided or packing it
out if you are in a site where there is no trash service.”
HIT THE TRAIL
A
network of well-maintained trails twists its way through groves and
glens, over ridges, past waterfalls, and to the top of several
13,000-foot peaks. All are easily accessible from the highway. This is
a hiker’s paradise.
Most trails to the west of the highway are
steep, at least in places, as the terrain rises from the road to the
Great Divide. Yet these offer the promise of dramatic vistas. Easier
hikes are abundant, and offer their own attractions of lakeside picnic
sites, wildlife viewing, and trout filled streams.
One of my
favorite treks is in the Wild Basin complex in Rocky Mountain National
Park, just north of the tiny town of Allens Park. The Thunder Lake
trail follows Cony Creek through a fairly easy stretch of lodgepole
pine forest. Within 1500 feet hikers pass Copeland Falls, the first of
many photogenic spots along the creek. Crossing streams and traversing
giant boulders, the trail climbs steadily to Calypso Cascades, a frothy
cold torrent, pouring through a rocky, log-strewn thicket of
evergreens.
Further on, the trail reaches Ouzel Falls, named
for chubby water ouzels, or dipper birds, which bob up and down on
rocks at the water’s edge on their little stick legs. Suddenly, the
birds will dive directly into the stream. They “fly” through the water
with their wings to catch bugs in the current, only to jump right back
up onto their rock as if nothing had happened! All the while, the mist
from the pounding falls chills hikers and birdwatchers in the piney
shade.
Another popular hub for hikers is the Brainard Lake
Recreation area. Although users pay an entrance fee of $6 (good for 5
days), the parking lots fill up early. Once you are there, it is easy
to see why. Dozens of trails dive into the Indian Peaks Wilderness Area
past alpine lakes reflecting fierce summits. This is the centerpiece of
the Peak to Peak Highway.
HISTORY
This
scenic and historic byway is woven tightly into the fabric of Colorado
history. Central City’s weathered cemeteries, bony mine buildings on
rusty tailings, and the elegant lodges of Estes Park all wrap travelers
in the quilt of yesteryear.
Some ghost towns are mostly intact
and still partially occupied, as in Ward, while others are little more
than a listing cabin or splintery piles of lumber as at Hessie, Lump,
or Gilpin. Where narrow gauge railroads once hauled supplies to mining
camps, now only rocky paths run through the trees, as on the
Switzerland trail. (Bring your mountain bike.) These lonely places
haunt visitors long after they’ve returned home.
WHEN YOU GO
Access
the Peak to Peak Highway from Denver by driving west on US 6 into Clear
Creek Canyon. At the junction with Colorado State Route 119, go north.
The Peak to Peak is Colorado 119 until the town of Nederland, where it
follows State Highway 72 north. Near Raymond, the Peak to Peak Highway
continues north along State Highway 7 until it reaches Estes Park. A
few villages offer services along the route, but the best grocery
shopping is in Estes Park.
Most recreational opportunities lie
above 9,000 feet. It occasionally snows in July, yet sunny days are
warm enough to work up a sweat when exercising. Dress in layers to
adjust to changing conditions and apply sunscreen often to protect
against high altitude sun exposure.
To help avoid altitude
sickness, drink two quarts of water a day or more, and avoid alcohol –
it makes altitude sickness worse. (Filter or treat water in the lakes
and streams before drinking it.) Eat plenty of high-energy food when
exercising, take it easy, and rest frequently.
Lightning is a
danger on the trails above timberline. Plan to be off summits and
exposed ridges before the summer storms roll in, usually just after
noon. Turn back to lower, more sheltered areas if you see storms
building.
Forest Service camping fees range between $11 and $15
per day. Contact the Arapaho-Roosevelt National Forest, Boulder Ranger
District at 303/541-2500 or fs.fed.us/arfn. The Longs Peak campground
in Rocky Mountain National Park (970/586-1206 or nps.gov/romo) is $12
per night. Campsites in Golden Gate Canyon State Park range from $12 to
$18 per night. Contact them at 303/582-3707 or
parks.state.co.us/Golden_Gate.